Sometimes, the best trips are the ones you almost didn’t take. What started as a loose idea between three digital nomads turned into a story of deep cultural immersion, kind strangers, spontaneous moments, and yes, some rain. We ventured inland into the cultural center of Sri Lanka. Here’s what we experienced and everything you need to plan a journey just like it.
Journey Overview
- Duration: ~20 days
- When to go: May–August (Recommendation: travel in May, at the beginning of the monsoon season)
- Trip style: Backpacking / low to mid-range / local-focused
- Best For: Cultural immersion, scenic train rides, wildlife experiences, vegan food, and affordable travel
- Route: Colombo (4 days) → Anuradhapura (1 day) → Dambulla (5 days) → Ella (5 days) → Nuwara Eliya (1 day) → Kandy (4 days)
Check out the Google Maps route
Travel During Rainy Season in Sri Lanka
Journeying during the monsoon season might sound daunting, but it comes with unexpected perks. The rain transforms the landscape. Expect lush greenery, misty hills, and dramatic skies that photographers dream of. While downpours can be intense, they’re typically short-lived and often hit in the early mornings, leaving plenty of dry windows for exploration. You’ll also enjoy fewer crowds, lower prices, and a more relaxed pace, perfect for slow, immersive travel.
That said, the monsoon season can be unpredictable. The heaviest rains usually hit the south and west coasts, which we avoided. Flexibility is key: be ready to shift your plans, embrace the occasional rain delay, and see it as part of the experience rather than a disruption. Pack smart, stay curious, and you’ll discover Sri Lanka in a quieter, softer light that many travelers miss.
What to Pack
- Patagonia Torrentshell 3L Rain Jacket – Durable and lightweight. Always bring a rain jacket, even when the day starts with blue skies. After a museum visit in Colombo, it took thirty minutes of standing there, drenched, until a local girl with the kindest eyes stood beside me with her umbrella. She even helped me hail a ride. That moment alone was enough to make me fall in love with Sri Lanka.
- Bellroy Notebook Cover – Held my passport, cash, and cards neatly. Sometimes Uber won’t be an option when it’s busy (like peak hour traffic in the rain), and you’ll need to negotiate a ride using cash. Wise is a great option for international withdrawals with minimal fees.
- YETI 27L Backpack – This pack became my portable home. It’s compact but roomy enough for a camera, snacks, and a rain jacket. Plus, it’s water-resistant and has excellent internal organisation. Built like a tank, but stylish enough for cafés, and fits everything I need.
- Uniqlo Airism Shirts – Their Airism shirts are lifesavers in Sri Lanka’s humidity. Light, moisture-wicking, and quick to dry, which is ideal when you’re caught in rain one hour and sweating on a temple climb the next.
- Teva Waterproof Sandals – Walked through courtyards and temples with zero blisters. The grip saved me on slippery stone stairs more than once, and they dried quickly after unexpected downpours.
- Wise Travel Card – A must for international travel. I withdrew rupees with minimal fees, avoided bad airport exchange rates, and used them like a local debit card at guesthouses and cafés. The real-time currency conversion and app tracking helped me stay on budget without overthinking.
Cultural Highlights
Vesak Day
Our trip coincided with Vesak Day (occurs around mid to late May), the day that commemorates Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, and death. With public transport mostly paused for the celebrations, we were incredibly lucky to have made a local friend who offered us an affordable ride in their private car. This became a highlight as it was comfortable, unhurried, and full of meaningful pauses.
Streets were filled with locals dressed in white, and many were offering free meals to strangers. Along our journey, we stopped by a Vesak food stall. Simple rice and dahl curry, given freely, reminding us that generosity needs no language.
Ayurvedic Tour
Ayurveda has deep roots in Sri Lanka. At Ceylon Tropical Spice Garden in Kandy, we explored how everyday herbs can be turned into skincare and wellness treatments. We tried some natural remedies like a jackfruit-based hair removal paste that worked better than anything store-bought. Sustainable, chemical-free, and deeply connected to the land.
Vegan Sri Lankan Food
From spicy lentil sambols to creamy jackfruit curry, the country is a vegan paradise. A standout was our cooking class in Ella at Priya’s Cooking School, where we made traditional dishes using the many spices iconic to Sri Lankan cuisine.
Getting Around Town
- TukTuks: You can pay cash (and haggle) or, for less hassle, use the Uber app, which offers fixed prices and helps you avoid being overcharged (Pro tip: download Uber before you get there.).
- Motorcycles: Great for small towns, but not ideal in busy cities like Colombo. Against all better judgment, I rented a motorcycle without having much experience. Surprisingly, they handed over the keys without even checking for a license. I don’t necessarily recommend it unless you know how to ride. I made it out in one piece, but let’s just say it was one of those “smile through the fear” kind of experiences.
- Public Transport: From Colombo to Anuradhapura, we kicked off our journey with a public minivan from the Colombo Central Bus Stand. A raw and real way to start the adventure. Comfort-wise, it’s basic (no seatbelts, lots of elbows), and although it’s technically a 25-seater, expect double that number squeezed in. We were quoted around 59,800 LKR (200 USD) for a private car, but we felt that they hiked the price up excessively. Instead, we embraced the spontaneity and budget-friendliness of local transport at just 13 USD for the 5-hour ride and zero regrets. Buy tickets at the stop (which is what we did) or buy online.
Things to Know
- Transport Costs: Knowing average fares will help you avoid getting ripped off by TukTuk drivers. In Colombo, the average tuk-tuk fare for a 5-kilometer ride typically ranges between 400 LKR to 600 LKR (1.8 USD). If you’re negotiating in person, use Uber as a price anchor, as it provides upfront estimates and helps you stay within fair rates.
- Monkeys: Keep your accommodation’s windows closed while you’re out and about. Ours was invaded by cheeky monkeys. They tossed some of my friend’s belongings everywhere 😅 Thankfully, no important documents were harmed, but it made for a hilarious, unforgettable experience.
- Language: While English is spoken in tourist areas, many locals primarily speak Sinhala or Tamil. Learning a few key Sinhala phrases can go a long way in showing respect and building rapport:
- Hello – Ayubowan (අයුබෝවන්)
- How are you? – Kohomada? (කොහොමද?)
- Thank you – Istuti (ස්තුතියි)
- Samosas: Honestly, traveling the 9,347 kilometers from Auckland to Sri Lanka felt entirely worth it just for these golden, potato-filled, breadcrumb-coated parcels of joy. Crispy on the outside, warm and spiced on the inside—you’ll find them everywhere, from street corners to humble roadside stalls. A must-try.
Destination Highlights
Colombo
- Visit the Colombo National Museum to unpack the country’s deep and complex history. Sri Lanka experienced centuries of colonial rule that included the Portuguese, the Dutch, and finally the British. This profoundly shaped Sri Lanka’s identity and development.
- Have a buffet at Nuga Gama, a restaurant built around a majestic Nuga (Banyan) tree, nestled inside a hotel complex. It took us a while to find it, dodging persistent TukTuk drivers and construction zones, but it was worth every bit of the effort.
Anuradhapura
- A sacred city. Our only regret was not visiting the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi Tree. This tree is believed to be a direct descendant of the original Bodhi Tree in India, where Buddha attained enlightenment. Visiting this site is an opportunity to connect with a place that has been revered for over 2,300 years.
Dambulla
- Wilpattu National Park Jeep Safari: The chances of seeing a leopard were under 10%, and even lower in the rain. Despite the weather, we held out hope during the 12-hour safari. Around hour 11, just as the sun peeked through, so did the animals. Including a bear and, magically, a leopard. It appeared right beside us before gracefully disappearing into the bushes. That moment left me in awe as the leopard seemed to say, “Here I am. Appreciate my presence. That’s all you get.” Nature reminded us of its beauty and unpredictability.
- Sigiriya Lion Rock: A moderately challenging climb that’s worth it. This 5th-century palace atop a 600-ft rock offers stunning panoramic views and wild monkey encounters.
- Elephants at Minneriya National Park: On the way to and from the park, we encountered wild elephants crossing the road. A surreal experience, and needless to say, we absolutely lost it with excitement 😆 At Minneriya National Park, there’s an abundance of Elephants roaming freely. One of my favourite highlights of the trip.
- Heritance Kandalama Hotel in Kandalama: This architectural masterpiece is carved into a mountain. We didn’t stay there, but dined at its incredible buffet. We loved the food so much that we ended up going there for dinner twice and also went for a cheeky late-night swim.
Ella
- Cooking class at Priya’s Cooking School: The food was incredible, and we got to be hands-on, from making coconut cream to combining fresh, local ingredients. Everything was vegan and delicious. It left me inspired to cook more Sri Lankan dishes at home.
- Hikes and waterfalls: Don’t miss Ravana Falls.
Nuwara Eliya
- We had a 4-hour stopover to explore this charming little town nestled in the hills. We arrived at the station and negotiated with a TukTuk driver to show us around.
- Giragama Tea Factory Tour: We joined a free guided walk-through of the black tea process, including withering, rolling, fermenting, and drying.
- We happened to stumble upon the Golden Ridge Hotel, a 5-star establishment that seemed to have been plucked straight from the Swiss Alps. Intrigued by the place, we decided to take a peek around. What started as a quick restroom stop somehow evolved into a full-on, impromptu tour of the entire hotel 😂
Kandy
- Ayurvedic tour at Ceylon Tropical Spice Garden: We learned how to make natural skincare and health remedies from herbs and spices. Takeaway: Nature provides all we need.
- Ambuluwawa Tower: Not for the faint-hearted. We climbed to the top and caught an epic sunset. One of the most thrilling moments of the trip. You can get tickets online or at the gate, and it costs 2000 LKR (approx. 6 USD)
- Hideout Lounge for food: This became our go-to lunch spot. Their food is vibrant, fresh, and packed with flavor, blending Sri Lankan ingredients with a global flair. We ended up here almost every day. Vegan friendly, and I highly recommend their Granola Breakfast Bowls and Black Pumpkin Curry.
Lessons Learned (What I’d Do Differently)
❌ Spend less time in Colombo: Spend no more than 2 days here. The real soul of Sri Lanka lives outside the capital. The chaos of the city is best experienced briefly before heading into the countryside.
❌ Don’t travel with a checked-in bag: Make sure to pack lightly. You can get by with just a carry-on, especially in a warm country like Sri Lanka. I have the YETI 27L Backpack that can pack everything I need, from electronics to a water bottle, and still feels compact and durable.
✅ Choose guesthouses over hotels for longer stays: Skip hotels for long stays. Just enjoy their buffets or pools (we did this more than a few times). Choose locally owned Airbnbs or guesthouses as they may provide a kitchen, washing machine, and better overall value. Staying locally can enhance the experience, and platforms like Airbnb often have curated options that prioritise sustainability.
✅ Always carry cash as Uber isn’t always reliable: Wise is a great option for international withdrawals with minimal fees.
✅ Double-check motorcycle safety before renting: Check all the safety features (brakes, headlights, navigators, etc). I learned this the hard way after finding out that my headlights didn’t work towards the end of our day. I ended up riding from Sigiriya to our accommodation in complete darkness and luckily, in one piece.
What Sri Lanka Taught Me
- Nature: Respect it. Cherish it. Let wild elephants cross the roads without interference. We are visitors here.
- People: Kindness is universal. It transcends language, culture, and even umbrellas.
- Food: Sri Lankan cuisine became my new favourite. As a vegan at the time, I had no shortage of delicious, vibrant meals, often found not in fancy restaurants, but at simple local spots.
- Organic Living: After visiting the Ayurvedic garden, I realised that nature provides everything we need if we just listen. From natural insect repellents to hair removal creams (yes, made from jackfruit). It was a beautiful reminder to live more simply, more organically.
- Be flexible: For someone like me, who usually plans trips, not planning in detail was wildly out of character. No fixed itineraries. Just a rough idea of where we needed to be and the willingness to figure the rest out along the way.
Ultimately, the best trips are the ones where the plan is loose, and the universe aligns. Sri Lanka gave us moments that now live rent-free in our minds. From wildlife to waterfalls, this is a journey we’ll never forget.
FAQ
Is it safe to travel to Sri Lanka during the monsoon season?
Yes, it’s generally safe to travel during the monsoon season, especially if you stick to less flood-prone inland regions. Rain showers are usually brief, so always carry a rain jacket and keep electronics and valuables in waterproof bags. Use common sense, avoid walking alone at night in unfamiliar areas, and keep your belongings secure, just as you would in any travel destination.
What’s the best region to visit in Sri Lanka during May?
May marks the beginning of the southwest monsoon, so it’s best to avoid the south and west coasts (like Galle or Mirissa). Instead, head inland to the Cultural Triangle and hill country places like Dambulla, Kandy, and Ella. These areas stay lush, scenic, and more accessible during this time, with fewer crowds and cooler temperatures.
Can I travel to Sri Lanka on a budget?
Absolutely. Sri Lanka is one of the most budget-friendly countries in Asia. We averaged around 20 USD per night for guesthouse accommodations, and meals ranged from 2 USD at local street stalls to 10 USD at nicer cafés. Public transport, like buses and trains, is incredibly cheap, and even private TukTuk rides can be affordable if you negotiate or use Uber.
Want to experience this journey? Let this guide be your inspiration.
